The Shakespeare Conference: SHK 15.0604 Thursday, 4 March 2004
Date: Wednesday, 03 Mar 2004 11:25:59 -0500
Subject: This Blessed Plot, This Earth, This Realm, This Soul Food
Foreign Report: London: This Blessed Plot, This Earth, This Realm, This
February 29, 2004
By WARREN ST. JOHN
A CURIOUS smell began wafting across the Soho district here early last
year, one that to Americans might have been as familiar and distinctive
as the scent of popcorn at a movie theater but which struck the locals
as new, foreboding and not a little uncivilized.
It was the smell of hickory smoke and charred hog fat, the unmistakable
aroma of an old-fashioned pit barbecue, emanating from the chimney of a
new rib joint called Bodean's, which takes its name from the character
in "The Beverly Hillbillies," Jethro Bodean.
"They asked, 'How often will it smell like this?' " Bryan Tyrell, a
Kansas City native who manages Bodean's, recalled his neighbors asking.
"We said, 'All the time.' "
There has been nothing subtle about the arrival of down-home Southern
cooking - soul food - in London. Thanks to the overpowering smell coming
out of Bodean's chimney and a handful of American soul food restaurants
that have opened here in the last year, the English - or at least, a
certain trendy subset of British foodies - have discovered Southern
food, and have gone gaga for it.
. . .
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